Off The Menu: The Last Days of Chasen's
A bitter and bittersweet send-off to one of Hollywood's most established eateries, Off The Menu collects a week's worth of memories from the dedicated staff at Chasen's, a restaurant renowned for its famous chili and celebrity clientele. "I feel like a dozen red carpets have been pulled out from under me," laments Fay Wray, a typical refrain that's echoed time and again throughout Shari Springer Berman and Robert Pulcini's documentary. But such sentiments touch on one of the major problems with Off The Menu, especially in its heavily nostalgic first half: No matter how rich this institution's history, it's hard to mourn the eclipse of a trendy, exclusionary restaurant by newer, trendier exclusionary restaurants. In a roundtable "final meeting" that's obviously staged, employees who served at Chasen's for much of its six-decade existence recall the Golden Age, when Alfred Hitchcock and the Rat Pack were fixtures and Ronald Reagan, another regular, proposed to Nancy. Their stories sustain a modicum of interest, but Off The Menu doesn't really get interesting until some of the restaurant's uglier backstories bubble to the surface. Berman and Pulcini uncover the racism that kept its Hispanic kitchen staff behind the double doors, the startling incompetence of the original owner's heir (who introduced an ill-advised "Disco Night"), and a grown man's resentment of his starstruck father, a dining-room captain who neglected his family for his nightly brush with fame. Given more than a week, the directors might have come up with greater revelations than the source for Donna Summer's "She Works Hard For The Money" or how Rod Steiger likes his Hobo Steak. Instead, Off The Menu edges toward a lighthearted portrait of Chasen's that the restaurant doesn't appear to deserve.