Anyone who's ever had the good luck to see Tenderloin play one of its amazing bar shows has been treated to the sight of Ernie Locke, the sexiest fat man in America and the best Southern-rock vocalist in the universe. If you like that Skynyrd sort of thing, you like Tenderloin. Sure, it's derivative, and shamelessly so; "So Cold," the new album's first track, could easily be a ZZ Top cover if you didn't know any better, and "Precious And Grace" actually is a ZZ Top cover, though you might not know that if you weren't told. But all 13 songs that rock equally well, without crossing that fine line between Southern-fried and just plain fried. Many good bar bands fail miserably when they try to get whatever makes them special down on tape, but Tenderloin has succeeded mightily. The group has the special talent needed to play the cowbell, blow on a harmonica and sing about bourbon, without looking ridiculous. That's a rare and valuable thing.